Phở is probably the most argued-about dish in Vietnam. Hanoi will tell you they invented it and still do it best. Saigon will tell you their version is better because they improved it. Both are right about something, and both are wrong about something. What matters for you as a visitor is that the two versions taste noticeably different, and knowing what to expect from Saigon phở helps you appreciate it properly.

What makes Saigon phở different

Saigon phở (phở Nam) has a sweeter, lighter broth than its Hanoi counterpart. The bones are simmered longer but with more aromatics — star anise, cinnamon, roasted ginger and onion — creating a broth that’s fragrant and slightly sweet. The noodles are wider and softer. And the serving comes with a plate of fresh bean sprouts, Thai basil, saw-leaf herb, and fresh chilies that you add yourself — a custom that doesn’t exist in Hanoi phở.

This herb plate is the main difference for most visitors. You’re not meant to eat them separately; you stuff them into the bowl while the broth is still hot so they wilt slightly, then eat everything together. The herbs cut the richness of the broth and add a freshness that makes the dish feel lighter than it is.

What to order

Phở bò — beef phở, the classic. When you order, you’ll typically be asked which cut: tái (rare sliced beef, added raw and cooked by the hot broth at serving), chín (well-done brisket), gầu (fatty brisket), gân (tendon), sách (tripe). Ordering tái nạm gầu (rare beef + flank + fatty brisket) gives you the full range of textures in one bowl.

Phở gà — chicken phở, with a cleaner, more delicate broth. Excellent when made well, underrated by tourists who default to beef.

Where to eat phở in Saigon

For the classic Saigon experience

Phở Hòa Pasteur — one of the most famous phở restaurants in Saigon, operating since 1960 on Pasteur Street in District 3. The broth is reliably excellent, the portions are generous, and it’s one of the few places where the tourist crowd and the local morning-rush crowd genuinely overlap. Open from 6am. Price: 75,000–110,000 VND.

Phở Bà Dậu — a neighbourhood institution in District 3, less well-known than Phở Hòa but preferred by many locals for its richer, more complex broth. No English menu, often a short queue at 7am, and closes by 10am when the broth runs out. Price: 60,000–80,000 VND.

For the budget option

Any unlabeled street cart with a handwritten sign saying Phở and a queue of people on motorbikes. These usually open at 5:30am, serve 50 bowls, and are done by 8am. Price: 40,000–50,000 VND. Order by pointing and holding up fingers for how many bowls.

How to eat phở correctly

Add the herbs and bean sprouts from the side plate into your bowl first. Squeeze in lime, add sliced chili if you want heat, and a small spoon of hoisin sauce and chili sauce on the side (not directly into the broth — that’s a controversial practice among purists). Eat with chopsticks and a wide soup spoon simultaneously: pick up noodles and meat with chopsticks, chase with a spoonful of broth.

It’s not rude to drink from the bowl. It’s expected. It’s the only way to properly finish the broth.